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At t he risk of oversimplifying, there are two basic spirits here, and the Balinese like to keep them in balance. From the black and white checkered aprons draped on the temple statues to the design of kites for the kite festival, everything seems to acknowledge a balance between the two forces. It could not have been an accident that at the Bali art museum they had placed modern sculptures of man and woman near a traditional monkey business scene and a classic garuda. I was charmed by the kite maker's sea horse, the dragonfly in the pool, and the white herons landing at dusk.